The Bar Review: a mixed bag of bar and restaurant reviews

By Ben Parisi

Note: I have not been to any restaurants or bars since the last issue, unless Qdoba or the lunch trucks count. (The Korean truck is highly recommended.) I offer this submission by way of apology to Prima Facie readers. Please check the next issue for a new review.

Campari

Campari is an Italian aperitif, profoundly bitter in flavor, but mildly sweet. The bitterness is similar to the bitter aftertaste of grapefruit, and comes from the same chemical compound.

The recipe for Campari is a closely held secret, but it is known that its bright red color comes from the cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus).

Campari became popular here during the Golden Age of American Literary Alcoholism, due in no small part to Ernest Hemingway. Though it goes well with soda, Hemingway found that, like so many things, it also goes well with gin.

This cocktail comes not from Hemingway’s influence, but rather from my alteration of the Negroni (gin, vermouth, and Campari in equal parts). This is less overpowering/icky, but still has the requisite kick.

THE BEN PARISI

1 ounce gin (Beefeater, or in those leaner, cheaper times, Gordon’s)
1 1/2 ounce Campari
1 splash orange juice
In a rocks or Old Fashioned glass, pour the Campari and gin over three or four ice cubes. Then, splash a tiny amount (about half an ounce) of orange juice in, stir. Correctly made, it should have a reddish-peach color, not pink.